CRACKING THE ROCKEFELLER CODE

I love Oysters Rockefeller at Antoine's Restaurant!

And I have been searching for the authentic recipe for a long time.  Even in New Orleans, this dish varies widely from restaurant to restaurant.  Be wary of Oysters Rockefeller that boast the inclusion of spinach.  Oysters Rock do NOT contain spinach.  Nor should they be covered in breadcrumbs or cheese.  You have to eat them at Antoine’s before you know what O.R. are supposed to taste like.  They have a topping that is a thick buttery paste of cooked greens, onions, and garlic, scented with Pernod.  You have to get the combination of greens just right.  You have to get the texture just right.  And you have to get the right amount of anise flavor just right.  As for the authentic Antoine’s recipe, the restaurant is not talking.  Over the years, I have attempted to bribe waiters and servers with absolutely no success.  And I have scoured recipe books and web sites with hopes of finding the Holy Grail… but to no avail.  Having said that, I have developed a recipe that I think comes very close to the Oysters Rockefeller served at Antoine’s.  See the recipe for Oysters Aladdin on this site.

TIPS FOR SUCCESS IN MAKING OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER

Start by making a blonde roux.  Melt 1/2 stick of butter (1/4 cup) in a big Dutch oven and add the minced white onions and garlic.  Stir.  Add the 1/4 flour.  It will almost immediately become a thick paste.  Add the greens:  2 bunches of parsley (cut off the stems and roughly chop the rest); 1/4 bulb of fennel, sliced very thin; chives (1/3 of a pack of chives, the kind you buy in the produce-herb section of the grocery store), fresh tarragon (about 8 sprigs); six scallions chopped; celery with leaves (two stalks).  Cook over low heat until you have a mush of greens. The mixture may get too dry — add about 1 TBS. of oyster juice.  Add another 1/4 cup of butter (another 1/2 stick) gradually.  Keep stirring so that the mixture doesn’t stick to the pot.  COOK FOR ABOUT AN HOUR OVER LOW HEAT.  But, save a little bit of softened butter for when you start processing the greens.  You’ll need one whole stick of butter to two bunches of parsley.  Season with salt.  Season with lemon juice (you will wind up adding about 3 generous squeezes of lemon or the juice of about 3/4 lemon).  Add the 1 TBS. of Pernod.  Add 1 heaping TBS. of shredded cheese (since I can no longer stand the taste of parmesan I use a very strong white cheddar, e.g., Sartori in the black package).  Add about 4 TBS. bread crumbs (stale French bread or one of those rustic baguettes from Fresh Market pulverized into very fine crumbs).  Let this mixture cool!  Then puree it —  I started the puree in the food processor, adding the last TBS. or so of softened butter, and then relocated the mixture to a bowl and used my immersion blender.  When you have a smooth puree, put it in a piping back with a big star tip (the pink Wilton tip) and pipe the topping onto the oysters.  Now, for the oysters:  I bought a pint of oysters at Dorignac’s and placed one big one in each ceramic oyster shell.  (If you have shuck raw oysters and use the real shells, then more power to you!)  BROIL AT 550 DEGREES FOR 12 MINUTES.  But check on them before 12 minutes go by!  In my old oven, I broiled them for 8 minutes, but in my new oven, it’s 12 minutes.  Go figure.  Broilers scare me because they can burn your beautiful food in no time!  But, you’ve got to broil these oysters because if you try to bake them, the butter will melt and you’ll get kind of an oily topping (as opposed to the little crispy-crustiness on top and the smooth unctuous filling beneath).  You might want to squeeze a drop or two of lemon juice on top and serve.  This recipe makes 9 oysters for me.  But I tend to pile on a lot of the puree so I could probably get 12 oysters out of this recipe if I were more judicious with the topping.  

I found a recipe for authentic Oysters Rockefeller on RealWorldTraveller.com that was very close to mine.  Any recipe that calls for spinach is a non-starter — it might result in a delicious dish but it is not Oysters Rockefeller.  And although making these at home is an especially gratifying experience for me, there is absolutely nothing like eating them at Antoine’s.  I have so many priceless memories of going there with F.B. Williams (whose picture as a Mardi Gras page in tights and a wig still hangs on the wall).  And most recently, just before the anniversary of Hurricane Katrina, I was able to enjoy dinner there with another amazing Frank whose entourage included a former vice-President — what an honor.  In between and over the years, I have enjoyed meals there with my best friends, I’ve celebrated an engagement, a reconciliation… birthdays… Saturday outings with my mom…  and a few random lunches on my own.  Antoine’s will always be a special place for me.  This dish will always evoke some of my best memories and I LOVE making it.  Eat these oysters with champagne and enjoy your life now.  

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